How Grade Coins

Grading a coin is the process by which its value is determined and set. The grade of a coin is important to both sellers and collectors of coins. If you are a coin collector or have coins to sell, you should know how to grade a coin.

The primary purpose of grading a coin is to determine what the coin’s market value is based on how well the coin was originally struck, how well the coin metal itself has been preserved, and how much wear and damage the coin has suffered since it was minted.

A range of grades are used to describe the condition of coins. Valuation of a coin is impossible without a sound knowledge of the grading of coins. For this there is no real substitute for experience. However, the following is a guide to the main grading scheme used for UK coins (please note that the UK standards are higher than for US coins):

Poor: Inscriptions worn off, date illegible, only outline of design visible. (US: AG-3)

Fair: Date, legends and denomination (if any) legible, type recognisable. Very little detail visible. (US: VG-8)

Good (G): (A US grade, better described as Mediocre) Inscriptions and date considerably worn but legible.

Very Good (VG): A US grade, Fair in UK. Considerable wear over the whole coin, and high spots worn through. Coins in this or the previous grades are really only collectable if extremely rare. (US: VG-8)

Fine (F): Worn over whole area, but only the highest spots are worn completely through. (US: VF-20)

Very Fine (VF): Detail clear, but obvious evidence of very limited circulation. High spots worn but detail remains. Traces of mint lustre may linger amongst the letters of the inscription. (US: EF-40)

Extremely Fine (EF): Slight wear on high spots on close inspection, and all other detail clear and sharp. Much mint lustre may remain. May appear uncirculated to the naked eye. (US: MS-60)

Uncirculated (Unc): No wear at all, although it is possible for the design not to be fully struck up in the minting process. There may be bag abrasions. Older coins may be tarnished or toned.(US: MS-62 to 65)

There are two higher grades seen in dealers lists:

Brilliant Uncirculated (BU): Usually implies full mint lustre.(US: MS-67)

FDC (Fleur de Coin): Perfect mint state, with no abrasions or marks, and full lustre. Usually applied to proof coins only, or coins from sealed mint sets. (US: MS-70)

Proof: Not a condition, but the coin has been struck using specially prepared dies and blanks, and the minting process has been carried out usually twice with extra pressure to ensure the die is filled. Normally the fields are highly polished, with the design matte, however matte proofs where the whole coin is matte are known (especially the 1902 GB proofs), and sometimes even the design is polished (especially from the early 1970′s for UK proof sets). Proof coins usually have very sharp edges.

Many coins fall in between grades, and so terms such as ‘nearly VF’, ‘good VF’, ‘gem BU’ are encountered.

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Coin Grading

The value of a particular coin, is determined by the grade that it is in. Coins that are in common circulation deteriorate over time and start to loose their detail. Coin grading will help you get to the coins current value, and a properly graded coin will determine more accurately what the exact worth of the coin.

Coin collectors use a numbering system to give collectors an accurate measure of the condition a coin is in. This numbering system ranges between 1 and 70. “1″ being the worst possible condition of a coin, and 70 meaning flawless.

The numbers tell collectors many things, like how much wear is on the coin and if there are any damaging marks on the coin. There are very few coins out there with a 70 grade on them. It is very rare, and most coins minted have flaws, even if they are ever so slight.

Grading coins is a science, and once you learn that science, putting a grade and a value on that coin will become much easier for you. Plus you will be able to accurately grade coins at auctions, coin dealers, and private collectors, so you will not get ripped off if someone is trying to sell you something at a higher price than it is worth.

So, coin grading is very important in the hobby of coin collecting, and learning this practice will greatly enhance your skills in the hobby and make you much more aware of current prices and rates that certain coins are going for.

How to Grade US Coins is a great starter for hobbyist trying to learn the art of coin grading. This book will go over all the different aspects of coin grading, and all the different grades of coins. It is a great reference to any hobbyist, and comes highly recommended.

Professional Coin Grading Service is a great service for those who either have had a hard time learning the fine art, or need a professional grading service to grade a particular rare coin. They also come highly recommended, and for some of your more finer specimens, a professional coin grading service is the way to go, to get a more accurately graded coin.

So check out our coin grading button, and learn the different types of grades for your coins, read the recommended reading on grading your US coins, or have a professional coin grading service do the work for you. Either way, accurately having your coins graded will easily put a value on your collection, and could quite save you a lot of money in the buying of coins for your collection.

Jon Gammon is the author and webmaster at The Coin Alley, visit the website to learn all about the wonderful world of coin collecting.

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What Is An Un-circulated Coin?

You may have heard the terms proof coin and un-circulated coin, but what’s the difference between these two? To understand the difference between a proof and un-circulated coin, let’s first answer the question, “What is an un-circulated coin?”

Un-circulated means a coin has not had any wear, such as the wear a coin might experience when it is used in commerce. Handling a coin, as well as improperly storing a coin, can result in wear on the surface of the coin. This wear, even if very minor, will cause a coin to no longer grade un-circulated.

When coins are minted they often bump into each other and receive small nicks and abrasion marks during the production process. These marks also occur as coins are transported in large canvas bags. These marks, sometimes called “bag marks”, are more noticeable on larger coins, such as half dollars and dollars. Typical “bag marks” do not keep a coin from grading un-circulated. However, they can be an indicator of how high of a grade the un-circulated coin might receive.

Current accepted grading standards provide for a range of un-circulated grades, from the grade of MS-60 to MS-70. MS60 would be a lower grade (yet still) un-circulated coin with normal bag marks for that type of coin. Anything below MS-60 would not be considered un-circulated. MS70 would be the perfect “ideal” coin. Some coins are rare in grades MS65 to MS70, and even unheard of in MS70 grade. (The attribute “MS” stands for “mint state”.)

A newly minted proof coin is also un-circulated, however it is the way it is made that causes a difference in appearance and qualifies it as a “proof”. To understand this, let’s look at how coins are made. Coins are produced when two dies strike a blank piece of metal with tremendous force. One die is engraved with the front (obverse) design for the coin. The other die has the back (reverse) coin design on it.

A proof coin is made with a specially polished and treated die! By treating the die in a special way, the coins it produces have a different appearance. Modern technology allows the high points on the coin design to be acid treated (on the die). The background (field) design of the coin die is polished, resulting in a mirror-like look on the coin it strikes. This gives the finished coin a frosted look (frosting) on the raise parts of the design, with a mirror like finish on the background. This contrasting finish is often called “cameo”. On some older coins a cameo appearance is quite rare. The attribute “CAM”, when added to a coin’s description, means cameo appearance. “DCAM” means deep cameo, and indicates the cameo appearance is strong and easy to observe.

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How much is this worth…?

Hi,

I have an Elizabeth I Half-Groat (1590-1592 over 410 years old :0) and was wandering how much is it worth?

Also could you tell me the grade of this coin?

Here are the pictures: http://s360.photobucket.com/albums/oo48/John0897/?action=view&current=PXN75Z3L8ZUW.jpg
AND

http://s360.photobucket.com/albums/oo48/John0897/?action=view&current=VHT5EF975QJE.jpg

Thanks for reading ;) .
teresah_1982 said "£1" : Do yourself a favor and get a life.
I know it is worth more than a £1.

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Another coin market value?

a 1943 denver mint steel penny NGC grade MS 66

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In coins what does grade xf and vf mean?

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I was wondering the approximate market value of a coin?

an 1884 morgan siver dollar O mint double struck
ANACS graded as AU 85

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